Phantom of the Opera Christine's Don Juan Triumphant costume

Inspiration























This photograph is a promo shot from the movie version of Phantom of the Opera.

Naturally, my version of the dress will NOT be an exact replica. First, I don't have a twenty-something body anymore, not at my forty-something years. Plus, I just love to add my own little touches.And finally, the hubby wouldn't be too happy with me showing so much skin on top. But I am striving to create the overall look of this costume.
Pattern-wise, I'm tweaking old patterns I've used for other projects:

The corset: I've lost the pattern envelope, but the number is 6484 and it was pattern for a junior's size corset top. I simply tweaked the front and front side pieces to create the unusual front detail of the movie costume.

The skirt: Butterick 4731 (which is a dress)






First, I'll admit, this isn't going to be an exact replica. The above picture is merely inspiration.

Because this is just a halloween costume, I took some shortcuts. The corset is constructed of only two layers. I found an absolutely gorgeous embroidered taffeta at JoAnn Fabrics in the home dec department. It's part of JoAnn's Signature Series and when it's on sale it's fairly inexpensive.

Because I made the corset with only two layers, I didn't use channels for the boning but instead used a light boning that could be sewn through. I sewed the two layers together at the neckline, flipped them right side out, then top stitched the boning in place. There is some wrinkling due to the lack of adequate boning, but less on my body than on the manequin.

I had the beaded trim and black braid already. I added some grommets to the back, made a pin with some ribbon and roses to decorate the front center and then decided the back needed a pretty bow and another rose or two...

Next came the skirt.

I studied the picture above for a long time, trying to decide how the ruffles were sewn. I decided there were two skirts: an underskirt of heavier gold material and a translucent top layer sewn from a lighter fabric.

I found a stretch velvet at JoAnn's on the clearance rack and decided that would be perfect for the underskirt. Comfortable, easy to move in and with a nice drape. I sewed a simple underskirt, using the same pattern as the overskirt but I omitted the zipper, deciding I wanted an elastic waist.

Next came the overskirt.

I found a sheer gold curtain fabric in the home dec clearance fabrics. Wide, inexpensive, and the perfect shade of gold. Perfect. I sewed the skirt first then tackled the ruffles. After staring at the photograph for a while, I decided to make my version by sewing long, narrow  tubes of gold material, gathering them then sewing them in horizontal rows around the skirt. I am not fond of raw edges and the thought of hemming dozens of strips of gold organza gave me a rash :)

Still, it was an extremely time intensive process. Cutting the strips, sewing them into tubes, gathering them and then applying them to the skirt. The final result is not an exact replica of the movie's costume, but it's close enough, and I'm extremely happy with how it looks.

I wrapped a genuine Victorian chantilly lace shawl around the hip and viola, the costume was complete.



(Right-click on images to view high-res photos)